Crossing jalori

Some times our plans of a good vacation go wreck because we make too much planning and the end result is a better place to go and roam around. And it was my turn to spoil the plans this time. I had planned everything for Mc’leodganj and was staying in Ludhiana to start next morning, May 7th but things changed and I was made to abandon the idea of Mc’leodganj. Now my plan was to go up from the Mandi-Kullu side cross Jalori pass and to come down from Narkanda - Shimla side. Tirthan valley is a typical place, what you call off-beat so I thought that starting from Kiratpur at 11-00 AM can be late and I rushed towards Aut (in my M-800). Around 3-30 I crossed Aut-Tunnel had to turn back as the way was just before the tunnel and I had to turn right there. Any way up to this, I was in time but no idea of the road conditions or any staying options ahead. The road was pretty OK till Ghiyagi, where I stayed for the night. There was no traffic, no tourists and no hotels visible along the road but we kept on noting the phone numbers of the hotels from the sign boards of a few hotels around Jhibhi, Banjar and Shoja, like Devganga (01903-227005, 9418154754, 9418893860), Shivani (01903-222276, 222719), Meena (01903-222258) and Haveli (9418803244), all scattered. Remember Shoja is not more than 45 kms beyond Aut Tunnel and is the last point where you can find accommodation to spend night. Raja guest house (09418550549) is right on the road and in my opinion they will always have a room for you. Along the way there are three-four home-stays/hotels and you are likely to find accommodation there also. The area is secluded, away from tourist rush and not townish at all. It is great for walks. There is a small brook along the road (not running adjacent) and at places it can be a good option for soaking in the sun and lazing around.

There is nothing much to see around. I stayed in Shringi Vatika, Ghiyagi (01903-227029). It was a good experience for the kids to spend night in a wooden room but when on a vacation you need something more comfortable. The place is given great reviews on a number of forums but I was disappointed. The food was not good at all. An elderly couple is running the place and I really appreciate their effort to keep an option available almost through out the year. The Vatika has small stream running through it and the location is very good. After Ghiyagi the road up to Jalori-Pass via Shoja is very steep and the condition of the road is very bad specially at the sharp and steep bends. Still any vehicle can do this if the ground clearance is more than M-800.
At Jalori-Pass you are in a different world altogether. You will find greenery all around and mountains below your feet. One walk from the top goes towards Saryolsar lake (5 kms) and other can take you to Raghupur Garh Meadows (2 kms). 2-3 small Dhabas remain operational here till snow fall starts but no staying options. The Aut side of Jalori-Pass is more beautiful than the Ani side and has better staying options. From Jalori-Pass, Narkanda is another 90 kms and is like a typical transit point in the tourist circuits.

Hatu peak around 8 kms from Narkanda is an xccellent place for views of the surrounding valleys and the green hills. The location of the PWD rest house at the peak needs special mention as I have never seen a place in India at such a beautiful location. Another thing about Narkanda is food that we had in hotel ‘The Himalaya’, excellent Dal Makhani, Shahi Paneer and Naan-Parantha.

MORE PICTURES.

Majestic Churdhar

My friend KKT2 would say

“Duniya ki sair kar Ghafil,

Zindgani phir kahan;

Zindgani gar rahi to,

Naujawani phir kahan”

Travel Bug bites me now and then. I don’t remember how I got the idea of climbing the “Churdhar” peak. There were only two sources from which I could have gathered information, one was internet and the other was a sole report about a trip to churdhar in “The Tribune”. Any way stage was set and after postponing it for 4 long years, programme was suddenly chalked out and I along with R, B and A started.

We set off from Delhi on Friday evening at 8 and spent night at my place in Kurukshetra 160 Kms from Delhi. Again in the morning got up at 4 and were planning to start by 5, but B was lazy and we could only take-off at 5-45, after that another 2 hrs in the planes and we were past Kalka before heat. Thanks to U for the paranthas and between Kalka and solan we had our breakfast.

From Solan its 65 Kms. To Nauradhar via RajGarh (the Peach Bowl of Hiamachal) churwa-dhar and Deedag, good road but almost no good places for Break-fast etc. It took almost 3hrs. from Solan to Nauradhar. Nauradhar is like all other small Himachali towns, Some Dhabas and local Bazaar. The Dhaba-wala will show you the starting point of the trek. But try to identify and mark the landmarks to avoid any chances of getting lost here. Mind getting lost does not mean that you will get lost in the jungle but that you might miss the regular mule-track and try 10 or 20 different slopes to finally find someone to confirm that you are on the right track. Although there are Gujjars’ huts almost throughout the trek and they are cooperative enough to guide you, but they are always ½ hrs climb away. Any way U don’t get any water for the first 2-3 Hrs. depending on your speed, and during these 2 Hrs. either you pass through lush green jungles (the regular mule track) or the rocky climbs, (we caught the rocky climbs.) But once you have negotiated this initial sweating ordeal, you reach “JamNala”, it’s an open area perfect for camping etc. with a Dhaba, where you can get Tea and biscuits, there are also some scattered Gujjar hutments nearby. After “JamNala” U get a water point after another 30 minutes walk that is not so difficult, and another walk takes you to “Tissri”(perhaps the third halt), again a good spot like “JamNala” with the same facility. It was 7PM when we reached here, here we changed our programme and decided to stay here for acclimatization and rest. Its possible to climb even during night up to the Temple. Bedding is available for 30 bugs in the Dhaba itself and at least U can sleep here. Next morning we started at 6 and were in the Temple by 8. Temple is at a very good location and they say that the place has blankets for at least 1000 persons. The place is very cold at around 3400 meters above sea level. Dharmashala is buildup (pucca) structure and there are 4-5 dhabas that can serve you Paranthas etc.(although the quality was very poor). The Lungar, we missed, would have been the better choice. From the temple it took another one hour to get to the churdhar top, it was a steep climb but rewarding, at least you can say that you have conquered a top. It is said that on a clear day, you can see gangetic planes and Kedar and Badrinath from this top, but I doubt if any day can be clear at this height. Here the view of the adjoining hills a-al-a mountains is awesome, my goodness, Paharis are very lucky. This is paradise on earth. I am not good enough to describe this beauty. It was nature and you alone. But we had to get back and join office on Monday. We started down at 10-30 but the descent also took some time and we reached down at Nauradhar at 4-30 PM at took our lunch (?). After this Solan is another at least 2-2.30 hrs. drive. From Solan we drove back to Kurukshtera and U was kind enough to serve dinner at 11-30.PM. After supper Delhi was only 2-30 AM.

Do remember:

1) Nauradhar to Churdhar is a good 18 KMs. Climb, but its negotiable even with children. Remember no porters and ponies.

2) Don’t forget to take your initial ration of 2 litres of water per head.

3) Take some biscuits with you.

4) The most difficult part is the initial climb, so start early and give yourself time to relax after each 15 minutes.

5) If possible stay in Nauradhar>Rajgarh>Solan for night so that you can start the climb early.

6) If starting early from Nauradhar, go to the hilltop straight and then come to the Temple and stay for night there. If starting very late from Nauradhar (A/N) , then halt in Tissri and in the morning start before 6, go straight to temple and then to the top. From top no need to come back to the temple, rather come to Tissri direct.

7) Do not forget to take a sweater.

8) Try a shoe that has good grips.

9) Rains? It’s a big problem during the trek.

10)Delhi-Nauradhar is exactly 280 KMs.

Some Fotos