Tungnath Chandershila

I was planning Tungnath and Chandershila for quite some time. A casual mention with a friend ultimately finalized the program. We were four, me, Dh, Bb, Sk and everybody had this or that to do. We had only 2-3 days but still we decided to touch our destination and reach up to Chandershila for sunrise. We started around 9-30 from Kurukshetra on Thursday night, 18 June in my M-800. Sky was clear and no chances of rain. They do not allow tourist vehicles beyond Rishikesh after 7-30 PM. We reached ‘Muni Ki Reti’ around 2-00AM and decided to sleep here. At 5-30 in the morning the view of Ganga and the hills on Swargashram side was wonderful. After freshening up we rushed towards Chopta via Rudraprayag. The road from Rishikesh was being recarpeted and some patches were in a very bad shape. We had our breakfast in Srinagar around 10-00 AM and around 3-00 PM we were in Chopta. Had our lunch here.

The sky was almost clear, there are good staying options in Chopta in the form of independent huts with 2-3 beds. 8-10 eateries also cater to the needs of the pilgrims and commuters. Some hotel wallahs started telling us that we were late and it will be better to stay in Chopta for the night start for Tungnath next day to come back in the evening but after a few more FAQs we started our climb of 3 ½ or 4 kms exactly at 04-20 PM. After warming up you start feeling that the climb is although steep but doable at a steady pace as the track is well laid and cemented. It is smooth climb all along no descents at all. We reached Tungnath at 7-00 PM the setting sun was presenting a beautiful sight.

Tungnath does not have many staying options but still, as per information, the local Dhaba-wallahs can provide beds to as many as 150-200 tourists. We stayed in the Kali Kamli Dharamshala and paid 150/- for a room with quilts (just workable). Hot water is provided in buckets @ 10/-, No electricity they use kerosene lamps and solar lights. You wake up with pure carbon in your nostrils. The temple is at a very peaceful location at around 3700 meters. Oxygen is low here and quick ascent prompted AMS. I was uncomfortable with acute headache but an anti-gas pill helped me as the head-ache is mainly caused due to gas trouble and undigested food in the upper stomach. We started for Chandershila at 4-00 in the morning as suggested by the locals. Walk up to Chandershila around 1.5 kms is through rocky terrain and can take 1 to 1 ¼ hrs. The first rays of the Sun fall on Choukhamba and the Sun rises 25 minutes later from this.

One can very easily return by 7-00 AM. Chandershila is at a height of 4000 meters from MSL. Those who do not want to walk can hire ponies (one way around 200/-). If you are staying in Chopta, ponies can be hired up to Chandershila for Sunrise even. There are so many meadows around and all along the route, I wonder what it will be like in the clouds flying past you. The beauty of the area is heavenly.

Chandershila can be done from Delhi also in the same time, Chopta is 210 kms from Rishikesh.

Some more photos.

Crossing jalori

Some times our plans of a good vacation go wreck because we make too much planning and the end result is a better place to go and roam around. And it was my turn to spoil the plans this time. I had planned everything for Mc’leodganj and was staying in Ludhiana to start next morning, May 7th but things changed and I was made to abandon the idea of Mc’leodganj. Now my plan was to go up from the Mandi-Kullu side cross Jalori pass and to come down from Narkanda - Shimla side. Tirthan valley is a typical place, what you call off-beat so I thought that starting from Kiratpur at 11-00 AM can be late and I rushed towards Aut (in my M-800). Around 3-30 I crossed Aut-Tunnel had to turn back as the way was just before the tunnel and I had to turn right there. Any way up to this, I was in time but no idea of the road conditions or any staying options ahead. The road was pretty OK till Ghiyagi, where I stayed for the night. There was no traffic, no tourists and no hotels visible along the road but we kept on noting the phone numbers of the hotels from the sign boards of a few hotels around Jhibhi, Banjar and Shoja, like Devganga (01903-227005, 9418154754, 9418893860), Shivani (01903-222276, 222719), Meena (01903-222258) and Haveli (9418803244), all scattered. Remember Shoja is not more than 45 kms beyond Aut Tunnel and is the last point where you can find accommodation to spend night. Raja guest house (09418550549) is right on the road and in my opinion they will always have a room for you. Along the way there are three-four home-stays/hotels and you are likely to find accommodation there also. The area is secluded, away from tourist rush and not townish at all. It is great for walks. There is a small brook along the road (not running adjacent) and at places it can be a good option for soaking in the sun and lazing around.

There is nothing much to see around. I stayed in Shringi Vatika, Ghiyagi (01903-227029). It was a good experience for the kids to spend night in a wooden room but when on a vacation you need something more comfortable. The place is given great reviews on a number of forums but I was disappointed. The food was not good at all. An elderly couple is running the place and I really appreciate their effort to keep an option available almost through out the year. The Vatika has small stream running through it and the location is very good. After Ghiyagi the road up to Jalori-Pass via Shoja is very steep and the condition of the road is very bad specially at the sharp and steep bends. Still any vehicle can do this if the ground clearance is more than M-800.
At Jalori-Pass you are in a different world altogether. You will find greenery all around and mountains below your feet. One walk from the top goes towards Saryolsar lake (5 kms) and other can take you to Raghupur Garh Meadows (2 kms). 2-3 small Dhabas remain operational here till snow fall starts but no staying options. The Aut side of Jalori-Pass is more beautiful than the Ani side and has better staying options. From Jalori-Pass, Narkanda is another 90 kms and is like a typical transit point in the tourist circuits.

Hatu peak around 8 kms from Narkanda is an xccellent place for views of the surrounding valleys and the green hills. The location of the PWD rest house at the peak needs special mention as I have never seen a place in India at such a beautiful location. Another thing about Narkanda is food that we had in hotel ‘The Himalaya’, excellent Dal Makhani, Shahi Paneer and Naan-Parantha.

MORE PICTURES.

TEHRI & DHANOLTY

I was planning to go to Tehri for years. Seeing an old city going under water would have been some memorable memories but my plans never materialized. These vacations I got some time to take my kids to Tehri and also fulfill my long standing wish. Plans were not clear, leave aside accurate. No idea of the accommodation or the tourist rush. Anyway starting from Kurukshetra I drove all the way to New Tehri (There is no old Tehri now) via Yamuna Nagar, Saharan Pur, Rishikesh, Narender Nagar and Chamba exactly 250 KMs.

Chamba is some times projected as a place of "unspoilt beauty" by some tour operators and some times by the Government also. But Chamba totally disappointed me the hills are almost barren. There can be some Resorts etc. at some vantage points around the place that are generally shown in the Pix otherwise it is not inviting at all and you are forced to move towards Dhanolty or Tehri. Any way. New Tehri was equally a disappointment, I have heard the people saying that at one time the people of nearby areas were very optimistic (when the new township was being planned) about the first planned hill-city of the independent India. But tourism never flourished here and the place became a nondescript transit point for the people rushing on the highways taking them to one of the "Dhams". It was the time when Old Tehri was rearing its head from the vast expanse of water, some crumbling walls of the old Royal Palace were visible. I think that one can always find a room to stay in Tehri in one of the 6-7 hotels there.

Returning from Tehri when you cross Chamba and after some distance before Kanatal, your mood changes totally the place is like heaven totally lush green and these 40 kms including Kanatal, Kaddukhal and Dhanolty are excellent for any nature lover.

At a number of bends over this road you will find valley on both sides of the road, I mean this thing I have never seen so frequently at other places the road is on a cliff. There 2-3 resorts in Kanatal and nothing more living options but the place is really excellent for long-long walks like Dhanolty. Kaddukhal is base for Surkanda Devi temple and walk to the temple is really rewarding in terms of 360 degree views of the surrounding areas. You are likely to find a lot of snow in the season here. Living options in Kaddukhal are nonexistent but GMVNL is developing a 12 room facility here and will be ready before snow season.

Dhanolty is really a gem, the place I liked the most and can be an ideal place for a relaxing and fragrant holiday away from the madding crowds. There are enough living options in the off-season but during peak-seasons you have to be a little careful. This whole stretch can best be used for Walking and munching on local juicy fruits like Kaafal, Phulam, Litchi Chullu etc.

Some Pictures of the trip are posted HERE

CHAKRATA ?

I was longing for a break for the last three months, things were going really awesome at my workplace and the four-corners were making me sick. It was a pure coincident when 3-4 of my friends mentioned that they were planning to go to Hemkund and Valley of Flowers and they had deliberately kept me out. Any way I made up my mind and clubbed my two day leave with Gandhi Jayanti thereby making a long weekend of 5 days, packed our bags and on the eve of our departure, we received the news that the roads towards Hemkund are all blocked due to heavy rains. Things were sinking. Suddenly the idea of going towards Chakrata flashed in my mind, I had no information at that hour except the route plan. Any way we left Delhi at 8 in the morning towards Panipat-Karnal-Yamunanagar-PaonataSahib-Kalsi-Chakrata. On this route are situated Hathnikund Barrage, a very ambitious hydel project of Haryana and Paonta Sahib, a historical Sikh Shrine.

We easily reached Kalsi at around 1 noon and took a break to visit the Rock Edict of “Asoka the Great”. The traffic towards Chakrata is regulated through gates and 2 PM was the gate time when we moved towards Chakrata.

I could not believe my eyes; Chakrata is situated on one of the best locations in the hills. One side of the hills is covered with grass that gives the hills a very special look like the meadows and the other side is forest laden. Really wonderous. The town is very small with no good hotels (except Snow-view) and literally no Hill-Station type Restaurants but the weather was very pleasing.Tiger Falls situated nearby is an excellent excursion for one day you can trek 5 KMs or drive down+ trek 1.5 KMs. They say it is one of the highest waterfalls in India. Be it or not the place is really good. I wonder why Government is ignoring this place. The place can be converted in to an excellent picnic spot.

Kanasar Forest and Deoban are the other places that can be visited nearby. But due to a minor accident we had to cut short the trip and return immediately and could not visit Deoban and Kanasar.

I compare this place with Lansdowne but Chakrata is certainly a better and cool place.

I stayed there for two nights but enjoyed my stay.

Some pictures of the trip are available here: CHAKRATA.

Rishikesh again

I don't know what keeps me calling back to the mountains and splashing water streams.

Morning and once again I was on the banks of holy Ganga. This time we had plans to spend day 1 at Neer garh, Vashishth Gufa, sandy beaches and day 2 at Nilkanth and Garud chatti.

Fore noon at the Neer Garh waterfalls was excellent and while coming back one of our partners, Phl, fractured his arm badly. We had to cancel all plans and return immediately.
Some of the Fotos of this very short trip are available here.

To Vaishno Devi

Last weekend I decided to drive down all the way to Vaishno Devi Temple right from Delhi. This drive turned out to be a new experience, new lessons and new self promises for me. I was travelling with my family in a car. Friday evening, I left for Kurukshetra after office. Left Kurukshetra Saturday morning by 8-15, here I Faulted, I miscalculated the distance as 400 kms. but had to drive 500 kms. to Katra, near Jammu, the base for the climb. It was 7-15 PM when we reached Katra but the sight of Trikuta mountain fills any one with fresh blood. Parked the car in a private hotel parking, they charge 50/- per day, and immediately started the climb. We did not take any help, carried our every thing along with a three year old, weather was perfect, reached the destination at 2-30 AM. Had our Darshans and hired ponies for Bhairon Ghati and down up to Adhkuanri and reached there 7-00 AM. From here we walked up to Ban Ganga and then a auto rickshaw for 30/- upto the parking.
Here I decided not to sit idle for the day sleeping but to drive back immediately, I was awake whole night after driving 500 kms for a whole day on the dusty 'work in progress' roads. I had hardly reached kahmir highway that involuntary actions of the body started showing up. I slept when the driver of a following bus woke me up by blowing horn furiously, he even warned me after overtaking by hurling a few abuses. Now I decided to try a new thing I slept five times on my way back, when ever I felt like sleeping. I tried every thing, in car, with AC on/off, on a dhaba charpoy, on a table, kids playing in the Dhaba Complex and in the middle of a car full of family members awake. Any how I managed to raech safely taking 3-4 Hrs. extra.
This time I have finally decided not to test my driving abilities against sleep.
Also I forgot to mention that I for the first time, saw the train track being laid in this valley, train will soon reach Katra from Udhampur.

One day of Hitch-Hiking in Jaisalmer

It all happened when I was on my solo trip to Jaialmer. I reached Sam, famous for the sand dunes, a little late and decided to return after spending an hour or so but no transport was available for Jaisalmer and I wanted to go to “Kuldhara”, a national heritage site. Suddenly a Jeep appeared from nowhere, but the driver told that he will only go to some village only 5-6 kms. Down, towards Jaisalmer. I asked for a lift and suddenly a sub-Inspector of Rajasthan Police came and obliging the officer the driver agreed to take us further down to some 30 kms. from where we were likely to get transport for Jaisalmer. From here the driver changed his plan and decided to go to Jaisalmer. Now I asked the driver to drop me at the Kuldhara road, as I was to go to Kuldhara in each and every case today itself. I told them that I am a tourist and will go to Kuldhara, they were surprised (the driver and the SI). The officer gave me a lecture that this was not the way to go places in Jaisalmer as I was not supposed to find a transport for Kuldhara from the highway and further back to Jaisalmer. He advised me to got Jaisalmer and hire a Taxi for this visit, a good discussion ensued about Hitch-Hiking. I simply gave two arguments, one that I don’t have enough money to hire a taxi and second that if you don’t have money and want to explore places; you have every right to try all tricks. Any way they dropped me at the turn and when I asked the driver about the fare he simply waived his head and "not from you buddy".
I took a deep sigh and looked at Milestone reading “Kuldhara 9 KM”.
Started walking towards the heritage site. I had hardly covered 1-2 kms that sound of a jeep filled me with anxiety (?). I tried for a lift but the jeep did not stop and went past me. I took a long breath and watched the jeep speeding, 100-200-500 meters, brakes, the jeep stopped and back-gear lights came on I ran towards the jeep and stood speechless by the driver window. They enquired all sort of things from me even doubted that I am a tourist and that too alone. Any how they buzzed and obliged. Some how I found some space to hang on to the outer frame of the jeep as a family with dozens of ghoonghat wallah (veiled) women was traveling in this jeep. Again the discussion repeated itself. The driver again said "not from you buddy". This driver was friendlier and even asked me to come back on the road within one hour as he was to return to Jaisalmer via same route and I was not likely to find anything back to Jaisalmer after that.

I entered Kuldhara and got lost in its charm, visited every corner of the village, all the water wells, streets and temple also talked to a local Bheel for some time to get info about the locals. First one hour and then one more passed, I realized that I have missed my lift. Suddenly a maruti car with a Gujrat no. entered this heritage site and the couple in the car went around the village quickly. I waited for them at the exit gate, again found some space on the back seat. They were very excited to learn the adventures of hitch-hiking. They dropped me on the highway and went away towards Sam. It was already six and Jaisalmer was still around 20+ Kms. away From here. The Jeepwallahs were all right I was all alone and did not see a soul for the next half an hour. And suddenly I heard the faint engine sounds of a Rajdoot Motorcycle, again excitement. The sound seemed to be coming towards me from the other direction and after 5 minutes a man with a Kasmiri topi, riding a khatara appeared. I waived my hands and he stopped. He was going to Jaisalmer. He gave me 100 advices (he was a teacher) but dropped me right on the gate of my hotel. The experience was really very adventurous.

Naini Taal v/s other Popular Hill Stations.

I got a chance to visit NainiTaal and Manali during the last fortnight of 2006. after coming Back, I could not hold myself back from recountimg my experiences of the two trips. It was my third or fourth time in Manali and Manali was as easy going and approachable, as always. The attitude of the Hotel Walahs the local populace is somewhat tolerable. At least they are ready to talk to the budget travellers but NainiTaal, the hotelwallahs are not ready to talk and buzz. My god, not a good sign for the tourism industry in a country like India where a majority of the travellers are back-packers. I shared this experience with a few others some were of the opinion that its only the rates of the Hotels that are on higher side as compared to some other popular hillstations (discovered by the Britishers), but others were of the view that the hotel lobby in NainiTaal want to mantain the tag of the somewhat superior status of Nainitaal. The hoteliers are not ready to let the rooms for less than what they quote once. They say that a certain class of the tourists will always return to NainiTaal year after years, this strata of tourists often comes from high paying capacity class. It is also my personal experience that generally budget class tourists go to Nainitaal area with keys of some cottages or flats of their friends or acquaintances, just to save the room rent.

Any comments?

Gwalior Fort

I was in Gwalior for one day on some official business. Could not resist my temptation for a solo walk to the Gwalior Fort. This was my first time in the Gwalior Fort. There are certain things that I have noticed during this walk in the sun announcing summers.
Gwalior's Bus stand and the Railway Station (out side) are one of the ugliest and filthiest in the country. Fort area is an excellent place for all interested in forts ruins and ruins. But:
*The fort area is not well maintained,
*Archeology people are not doing anything here,
*You immediately come to know why Rajsthan gets more tourists than Gwalior,
*Almost no arrangements of any eating place,
*Even in the fort either you just watch some dilapidated buildings or take a guide, no sign boards or details of anything.
Any way The sight seeing in the Fort suited my tastes and the photos of the trip are available at:

"Gwalior Fort"

Lansdowne

Lansdowne was on my wishlist for a weekend trip from Delhi, but I always had some doubts about the place, if there can be any activity around where one can spend one full after-noon, evening and another fore noon. Any way this time it was Bh. who insisted on going to Lansdowne alone.
We started on 14/10/2006 at 5-00 AM, in a group of five BH, Dh, Rk, Tw and me. it's good seven hours from Delhi at an easy pace. After crossing Kotdwar we drove along a river up to Lansdowne, it was a beautiful and clean river, actually we bathed for hours in the swift river current near a temple.
It was very cool evening in Lansdowne and we had to put on the woolens. The place is not beautiful at all, the scenic beauty of manali, Simla and Mussoorie (which is due to the location of the stations) is totally missing. You have nothing to look at for hours, almost from any corner of the town. We could not find any specially recommended sun-set point.

Morning was equally quite. Believe me, the atmosphere was very calm here and the sprawling bungalows at the isolated places in the hills along the road are the speciality of this cantonment. After breakfast we took a trip to Tiffin-Top(Tip-n-top?) and it turned out to be the only place of any interest for the tourists. The view of the valley and "CHAUKHAMBA" range is marvellous from here.

Tiffin-Top

Chaukhamba Ranges

Catholic Church

Water Caves around Dehradoon

I have been to Dehradoon and mussoorie a number of times, But could not get beyond Kempty Falls, Sahastradhara, Gun Hill and of course mall road. This time, I did some research on the net and decided to explore Robber's Caves and Sahastradhara and had two full days for this. There was not much information available on the net, I searched some of the blogs, but again a disappointment. I was determined this time to go somewhere deep and still be able to come back by Sunday night. We were a group of Five, all colleagues, Bh, Tw, KKT2 and Dh.We left Delhi via the Bhopura border by 5-30 in the morning in a Santro, reached Meerut. There was not much traffic on the roads, we were cruising. And this is what we got.

We had no jack. Dont forget to take an extra tube, they ask for double the regular price. It took us at least 7 hours to reach Dehradun. We wasted no time and started asking for the Robbers caves but to my surprise almost every one, from the yong to old, was ignorant about the caves, they know this place as Ghuchuk Pani. The road upto caves is motorable and in the OK condition. I was totally disappointed on reaching the mouth of the cave, and regretted my decision to come here and conveyed the same to my partners, it was me who was organizing.There are a few shops just next to the cave and a Tibbetan, Anup Lama, on the rolls of the Topurism Department, remains present, he even runs a small stall. We had some refreshment, Maggi and Omllette is available. It looks some thing like this,It started drizzling and there was a sudden change in the atmosphere. We entered the caves knee deep in water, it was a long narrow cave. After first 30 metres the water rose to the level of waste and we had to put-off our clothes. No one goes beyond this point except a few urchins. Now I started regretting on my regrets. This place is awesome. I could not understand the fact that this place is not on the wish-list of tourists. Its quite safe for the families and even the kids will enjoy, for the tough minds 650 metre long narrow cave is ahead with rushing water and A-grade excitement.

*

After spending 4-5 hours at Ghuchuk Pani, we decided to head for the Youth Hostel Mussoorie. We got dormatory for 60/- each, went up to have our dinner in mussorie.It was not very cold the night was very pleasant with two blankets. Youth Hostel has arrangements for boarding and we had our breakfast paranthas. After this we started for SAHASTRADHARA it started drizzling the view of the hills from mussoorie to sahastradhara was breathtaking












Sahtradhara has changed a lot during the last 3-4 years but the lower end is still as dirty and stinking as it used to be. Dhabawlas has created artificial water ponds by stopping the natural flow of the brooks just to attract more tourists.
We went up and further up-stream. It was very slippery up there due to the algae, and one has to be very cautious as the flow of water is very fast and a slip can crack your bones. It started raining again and the MONSOON MAGIC was unleashed. That one hour os the downpour was the best part of the trip. We bathed for hours before stopping ourselves.

It was time to take the road to Delhi but before that we wanted to have MOMOS. We searched here and there like a thirsty crow and finally ended up having found a Buddhist Monk chewing on his PARANTHAS.

HANG-OVER.